The following article was published in the New Jersey Star Ledger on July 2, 2004:
Series: MUNCHMOBILE 2004 The great stakeout Move over, Philadelphia! We found great cheesesteaks in Jersey By PETER GENOVESE STAR-LEDGER STAFF Sometimes you just have to give in. To temptation, indulgence and sin. The typical Philly cheesesteak is so not good for you. It’s a no-holds-barred, in-your-face kind of sandwich. Literally. A half pound or so of meat — generally top round, sirloin or rib eye — and melted cheese (American, provolone, cheddar or Cheez-Whiz) welded to a torpedo or sub roll. It’s gloppy, sloppy and simply irresistible. Maybe not so much the breakfast of champions as the lunch of those who have nothing to lose. “This is the best spot in the country,” said James Osborne of Willingboro, standing inside Gaetano’s Steaks and Subs in Willingboro. “I’ve been all over the world, never had a cheesesteak like the one here. Look at these guys.” He motioned to Dean Steinman, taking orders, and Bear Williams, deftly dicing meat on the grill. “Everybody talks about a Philly cheese-steak,” Osborne added. “This is better.” The Munchmobile crew was on a meaty mission — find the best cheesesteaks in New Jersey. Yes, you heard right. Jersey. Not Philly, birthplace of the cheesesteak and allegedly the only place that does it right. “Cheesesteaks — in New Jersey?” your typical Philadelphian will ask before breaking down in hysterical laughter. Well, Philly fanatics, we have news for you. Pat’s and Geno’s are the cheesesteak citadels in William Penn’s city, and the Big Dog, which has visited both, found better on this side of the river. It’s not a matter of equal time, or Jersey pride; we’re just calling it like it is. “ Oh, my God,” whispered Jacqueline Burnett of South Plainfield, one of six thirty-something singles on our cheesesteak crusade. “We have a winner.” Where did Burnett find cheesesteak nirvana? How much cheese can you eat in one day before the EMT crew brings out the paddles? And why in the world would you put tomatoes and garlic on a cheesesteak? We’re on a roll; jump aboard. Gaetano’s, Willingboro First of all, a cheesesteak primer, courtesy of the Web site bestcheesesteaks.com. “The roll should be soft, moist and springy,” according to the site. “The best rolls almost melt in your mouth, blending in with the steak, cheese and toppings. The crust should be thin and not too flaky.” The meat? “The key is to get a nice cut and slice it thin. A good steak will be tender and savory; poor cuts of steak will be tough and gristly.” Cheese? “To most native Philadelphians, provolone is the best cheese. But some places will offer American, cheddar, and some of the bigger, more popular places in Philly offer Cheez-Whiz.” Properly schooled, we walked into Gaetano’s, a plain-Jane cheesesteak joint tucked into a strip mall off Route 130. The Munch crew ordered three large steaks, spreading the sandwiches on top of the Official Munch Cooler out in the parking lot. Gaetano’s Cajun chicken cheesesteak is juicy, spicy, terrific. “Delicious,” raved Love Muncher Frank Dominguez of Kearny. “The spices ate up the plate,” joked Burnett, showing her shredded, grease-streaked paper plate. The regular cheesesteak was not nearly as good. “Not the same oomph,” according to Dominguez. The bread, from De Luca’s, more than passed muster. “Let’s go several days on the Dog!” Burnett shouted back inside the van. Don’t put any ideas into our head! Big John’s, Cherry Hill Big John’s was the fanciest cheesesteak place we visited; one dining room is a stylish, skylit space. Plenty of seating, plus a “world famous” self-serve pickle bar. Tasty Kakes — what else? — can be found at the counter. We were split on the meat here — some found it tastier than Gaetano’s; others said it lacked freshness and flavor. Dominguez, echoing the majority, said Gaetano’s bread was “fluffier and airier.” Go with provolone here as your choice of cheese; it comes off better than the American cheese. It’s a good, not great, cheesesteak. Service could have been friendlier; maybe the girl behind the counter was just having a bad cheesesteak day. Chick’s Deli, Cherry Hill Chick’s, opened in 1957 by Chick DeGregorio, is not easy to find. It’s in an alleyway just off Route 70 west. Turn right at Virginia Avenue (just past a PNC Bank) and then make an immediate left into the alley. Inside is a cozy hole-in-the-wall, with six tables. Step around the pallets of shrink-wrapped soda and cardboard boxes and pull up a chair. The meat used is skirt steak; the bread comes from D’Ambrosio’s in Philly. “I never realized there was a cheesesteak phenomenon (until recently),” said co-owner Joe Danfield. “You won’t believe the people in their 60s and 70s coming in here and ordering cheesesteaks.” The plain cheesesteak here is a molten marvel, the meat, cheese and bread blending beautifully together. “It’s juicy without being greasy — not an easy thing to do,” Burnett said. The chicken cheesesteaks may be even better — tender, plentiful meat, same cheesy charm. “I’m not digging the chicken as much as the plain,” Burnett said. Dig this: Chick’s isn’t fancy, but it’s good. Really good. Steaks Unlimited, Seaside Heights There’s nothing like a big fat cheesesteak at 4, 5 in the morning. At least that’s what the regulars at Steaks Unlimited say. “Barstool-type place, the best cheesesteaks you’ve ever had,” one reader told us. The difference here — apart from the view of the Seaside boardwalk and being able to order a cheesesteak at the crack of dawn — is the choice of bread. Pizza bread, from DeLuca’s, is used. “Tradition,” explained Dana Farvolo, co-owner of the open-air stand. “That’s the way it’s always been done around here.” Grab a fistful of napkins, and enjoy. The chicken cheesesteak drew oohs and ahhs among the Munchers, but it wasn’t on Chick’s level. The plain cheesesteak was no match for Chick’s or Gaetano’s, but we all liked the bread. “Soft enough to hold it all together, substantial enough to keep it all in,” Love Muncher Paul Bonelli of Manasquan observed. These are straightforward cheesesteaks; come here for the open-air dining, and Seaside’s low-rent charm. Philadelphia Grille, Elizabeth We rumbled up the Parkway and pulled up in front of a palm tree-decorated cheesesteak joint in ... Elizabeth? A sign at Philadelphia Grille gives off the right amount of Philly attitude: Specify if you want your steak with (wit) or without (wit out) onions. Specify Cheez Whiz, American cheese or mozzerella (CQ). Have your money ready (do all your borrowing in line). Practice all of the above while waiting in line. Unfortunately, they had run out of mozzarella and provolone when we arrived, so we had to settle for Cheez Whiz or American. But we found the day’s crustiest, chewiest bread here. Good chicken cheesesteak, with ample chunks of meat. The regular cheesesteak: better than Big John’s or Steaks Unlimited; nowhere near as good as Chick’s. Don’t dare walk away without trying the sweet potato stixs, finger food that you will be scooping up by the handful. “I smell cheesesteak in my hair!” Love Muncher Donna Helm of Bloomfield said afterwards. It was that kind of day. The Munchers’ assignment was over. More cheesesteaks were on the Munch driver’s horizon. Sub Shack, Hackettstown “Our 29th year — same location, same owner,” reads a sign in the aptly named Sub Shack, at Main and Warren in Hackettstown. Cramped quarters, slightly tilted ceiling, a ceramic tub of “famous giant garlic pickles” — you’ll like the ambiance. Although maybe not the cheesesteaks. The Philly style cheesesteak — we held the fried peppers and onions — came with substandard, overcooked meat. The “French style” cheesesteak, with white American cheese, sautéed mushrooms and an onion sauce, was more palatable — the meat wasn’t cooked to within an inch of its grill life. The good toasted roll was wasted on both sandwiches. The subs looked good, though. Bill Brenner of Great Meadows was in the Shack ordering a ham, cheese and salami sub for a relative in Oklahoma. “You want to slip in some hot peppers?”asked clerk Kathleen Leo. “No,” Brenner replied. “She’s my mother-in-law.” Coppola Ristorante & Pizzeria, New Providence There’s a world of good eating inside the typical New Jersey strip mall. One side of Coppola is a casual, attractive restaurant; the other is the pizzeria/takeout counter, with several tables. The most distinctive cheesesteak we came across is here. Cheesesteak with tomatoes and garlic somehow doesn’t sound right — you can hear the incredulous comments all the way from Philly — but it proved to be a grand slam of a sandwich. Garden-fresh tomatoes, garlic and spices, good cheese and meat add up to a cheesesteak that dares to be different, and is delicious. The cheesesteak with mushrooms, on the same toasted roll, is almost as good. Mr. B’s Grill, Morristown A sign behind the counter at Mr. B’s proclaims: The cheesesteak invented in Philly perfected in Jersey Strong words, but our statewide search proved Jersey can hold its own on the cheesesteak front. You won’t be disappointed here. The plain cheesesteak seems a little light on cheese, but the meat — “100 percent sirloin” — is tender, and the roll soft and chewy. The chicken cheesesteak, again light on the cheese, is better. The best steak sampled: the Billy B Steak, with stewed tomatoes and hot peppers. Yumm. Biggest surprise: the wings. If you like them fat, crunchy and crackly, you’ll love Mr. B’s wings. Wings and a cheesesteak? Sounds like an all-American meal to us. Maybe even a healthy one, too. “Lately, we’ve sold a lot of cheesesteaks without the bread, for all the Atkins (Diet ) people,” explained manager Brian Bonanno. “We just put it on lettuce.” This week's Love Munchers Paul Bonelli, 36, Manasquan Works part-time as adjunct professor and artist. "I do appreciate a woman who not only has adventurous tastes in food, but who doesn't mind chowing down on a mountain of food once in a while." Jacqueline Burnett, 38, South Plainfield Aspiring writer. "All my 5 siblings are happily married for 15 years or more but the baby (as they still like to refer to me as) has been unsuccessful." "I am single, available and ready to munch my way to happiness." Frank Dominguez, 32, Kearny Member of Longshoreman's Union, works at Port Newark. Enjoys fishing, the outdoors, drinks in the city, dancing, dining. "Looking for someone who's outgoing, energetic, exciting. Someone to have fun with." Donna Helm, 39, Bloomfield Teacher at the George Washington Carver Institute in East Orange. "I'll eat my way through the great state of New Jersey, maybe meet a guy (hopefully NORMAL) and best of all I'll get to tell everyone that I rode the Love Dog." Felicia Margolies, 33, Parlin Rutgers grad; works as an accountant at New Jersey Institute of Technology. "I have tried different dating scenes without success. I would love the opportunity to ride the Munchmobile and perhaps meet my one and only." Keven McDonald, 37, Morristown Apartment burned in January; losses included his prized stash of Munchmobile year-end summaries. "Invite me along - I literally bring along no baggage." Munch team favorites * Paul Bonelli: Cajun chicken cheesesteak, Gaetano's, Willingboro; chicken cheesesteak, Steaks Unlimited, Seaside Heights. * Jacqueline Burnett: Cajun chicken cheesesteak, Gaetano's; cheesesteak, Chick's Deli, Cherry Hill. * Frank Dominguez: Cajun chicken cheesesteak, Gaetano's; cheesesteak, Steaks Unlimited. * Peter Genovese: Cheesesteak, Chick's Deli; cheesesteak with tomatoes and garlic, Coppola Ristorante & Pizzeria, New Providence. * Donna Helm: Cheesesteak with works, Steaks Unlimited; cheesesteak, Philadelphia Grille, Elizabeth. * Felicia Margolies: Cheesesteak, Chick's Deli; chicken cheesesteak, Steaks Unlimited. * Keven McDonald: Cajun chicken cheesesteak, Gaetano's; cheesesteak, Chick's Deli. Love Letter of the Week If you do want to die and go to heaven, get a side order of potato salad at Sweet Potato and Pecan (Forest Avenue, Montclair). At the first bite, you'll faint and need to be taken out on a stretcher, it's that good. Fresh and flavor-packed, it is smooth and creamy and has just the right amount of pickles and chopped hard-boiled egg. I've never tasted better anywhere. This is a fabulous soul-food restaurant, and everything is good. It's not a sit-down place, but go anyway and get that potato salad and take an order up to St. Peter. - Nonie Gilbert, Nutley n For more reader feedback, see Page 71 Fourth of July picnic alert! You want the Big Dog at your big July 4th picnic? Here's your chance! Our annual July 4th road trip is the highlight of every Munch summer. Invite us, and we'll show up and help you eat your food! Call the Munchmobile Hotline at (973) 392-1765 or send e-mails to pgenovese@starledger.com. Give us details about the picnic - what kind of food, the hours, and why you think the Big Dog should be there! You must call or write NOW! Up next Read about the love-struck Munchers' search for the state's most romantic restaurants in next Friday's paper. Next Saturday, the crew hits the road to find the state's best deli sandwiches. Where should we go? Call or e-mail now! T-shirt giveaway Each week this summer, we're giving away special Munchmobile Summer of Love T-shirts to the first two readers who answer the Munch trivia question of the week. Call the Munchmobile Hotline; you must leave your name and phone number. This week's question: At what Munch stop this summer can you get red pepper ravioli? Last week's question: What Munch stop this summer doesn't believe in vinegar? The correct answer: Primo Hoagies, Brick The winners: Vincenza Farco of North Caldwell and Nancy Carroll of Edison. Top Dog Who says you can’t find a good cheesesteak in Jersey? We came across several standouts — the Cajun chicken cheesesteak at Gaetano’s, the tomato and garlic cheesesteak at Coppola, the pizza bread cheesesteak at Steaks Unlimited among them. But the tiniest cheesesteak joint stood the tallest. Top Dog honors this week go to Chick’s Deli, above, in Cherry Hill. Great cheesesteaks. Reader feedback My friends and I love a great cheesesteak sandwich, and we found the best one at Tavern in the Park (West Westfield Avenue), Roselle Park. Have a great cheesesteak at the bar or in their living room lounge, and wash it down with one of their 14 homemade sangrias. Awesome! Here's a great spot no one knows about yet. A great discovery for the Munchmobilers. Good luck and enjoy it. - Jamey Carino White House Subs in Atlantic City: Barring none, it is the best cheesesteak in New Jersey. They have been there at least 60 years. They come from Philadelphia, the original cheesesteak mavens. I promise once you've had one there, you will have to return! - Sandy Cohen, Monroe Russo's (9th and Surf), North Wildwood - I stopped eating all other cheesesteaks at any place but there. Fabulous bread, great steak and melted cheese. You can't beat it. - Monica, on the Munchmobile Hotline The Chicken or the Egg in Beach Haven has the best buffalo chicken cheesesteaks. Ever. They offer about 15 types of sauces ranging from mild to suicidal. Zinger was a favorite at my shore house. Gotta check it out. - Denise Dagnino I know you were just in Ocean City, but it's worth the trip back to try a Voltaco's cheesesteak. Voltaco's is a takeout-only, hole-in-the-wall place located (on West Avenue) between 9th and 10th streets. You might still be in Jersey but the cheesesteaks are great! - Megan Thornton, Morristown Biggie's Clam Bar, Hoboken: The best cheesesteaks you've ever had. It's better than going to Philly. They use the really, really good bread. - Rick, on the Munchmobile Hotline Xocolatz, Elm Street, Westfield: They do a fabulous, fabulous job on salads. They also have homemade quiche and homemade pastries. - Robin, on the Munchmobile Hotline I hope it's not too late for the Munchmobile to hit up P. Bunyans Steak House (Main Avenue), Wallington. Their Philly filet sandwich is to die for. I have never had such a good cheesesteak in my entire life, from New York to Philly, there's nothing out there like it. - Lorien E. Pye The cheesesteak at Bon Appetit (Route 10, Denville), with provolone, portobello, peppers and onions, is awesome. -Kathy, on the Munchmobile Hotline Where we munched * Big John's, 1800 Rt. 70 west, Cherry Hill. (856) 424-1186. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Web site: www.bigjohns.com. * Chick's Deli, 906 Township Lane, Cherry Hill. (856) 429-2022. Grill hours: 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday. * Coppola Ristorante & Pizzeria, 590 Central Ave., New Providence. (908) 665-0266. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; noon to 10 p.m. Sunday. * Gaetano's, 224 Pennypacker Drive, Willingboro. (609) 871-6861. Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday. * Mr. B's Grill, 84 Speedwell Ave., Morristown. (973) 451-0141. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday; 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday. * Philadelphia Grille, 929 Westfield Ave., Elizabeth. (908) 659-1000. Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday. * Steaks Unlimited, 21 Ocean Terrace, Seaside Heights. (732) 830-8830. Hours: 11 a.m. to app. 4 a.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to app. 6 a.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday. * Sub Shack, 312 Main St., Hackettstown. (908) 852-6677. Hours: 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday; 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday; 11:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. In the summer, closes at 3 p.m. Sunday beginning July 4. URL: The great stakeout
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